Mast step continued

The boat is propped up so that the step is 10" higher than the transom.

I made a template of cardboard for the mast step support, and got an excellent fit for this.  Next it is tacked in place with a little epoxy grout.

Great care was take to get the 3 degrees aft and centered.  

Then, epoxy grout is added to the platform supports 3/4 X 3/4 and placed level.  when this sets, I will fillet and tape in place.  

Having a few of these lead weights hanging around has been very helpful during the build.  Wear gloves and wash your hands.  

to date...I have used four disposable chip brushes, lost two when I forgot to clean them.  Also have used about 1 gallon of epoxy to tape and fillet so far, as well as a tub of cabosil style filler.  will need to order more of this next week when I put the keel batten in.  

and...a few hours later.  

It looks as if I may have missed the location by 1/2" too high and forward.  If its an issue, I will spile on a couple of inches to the rear of the step and add some support.  a 3" tube located 17 1/2" on center off the deck will land about 1.75" on center in.  just enough.  In hind sight, This piece could be made a few inches longer without hurting anything.  The most important measurement is from the deck hole to the platform as the mast tube will only be about 22" long when completed.  

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Keel batten

I have decided to break with tradition at this point, not wanting to have to turn the hull over four times.
I am going to install the bulk of the interior prior to flipping as many other builders have done.  This means i will put the keel batten, seats, CB trunk in place first.

Step one was to remove the aft bulkhead that was mistakenly installed.  this took 5 minutes with the multi tool.  It cuts through epoxy and glass like butter and is easy to control in a tight space.

Step two was to make the hole in the temporary center bulkhead large enough to get the batten through.  I know I could probably take it out at this point, but it really keeps things rigid.

Step three - cut rough batten to length.

next will be to cut an approximation of the bottom angles onto the batten with a plane.  Will rough out with the electric, then smooth out with the block plane and sandpaper.

August 31 update -
Took the batten stock to the sawhorses and roughed out the cut with the block plane at the stern and the power plane at the bow.  It actually fits pretty good!  This will help minimize how much goop needs to be mixed up to fit the batten.

the batten is anchored at the stern, and supported near that bow so that epoxy grout can be laid for 2/3rds of the length.  

Hole in the temporary bulkhead allows enough clearance for gluing. 

Two heavy bags help to weight down the stern part. 

I did make a HUGE, DANGEROUS, and EXPENSIVE mistake when fitting the batten to the hull.  I have been using chunks of lead, marine batteries, and other assorted heavy objects to make the batten lie flat to the hull.  Then I drilled pilot holes from above, then a smaller pilot hole from below the boat so that the batten would be held firmly and not need extra weight on top while the goop hardened.  I know how easy it is to split fir, so the pilot holes are essential.  During this process while drilling from beneath and into the batten, I accidentally drilled a small pilot hole INTO THE MARINE BATTERY.  My first thought was, "damned, where is this water coming from."  Then the obvious came to mind!  I boogied to get the battery out of the boat, and onto the cement floor, and eventually back into its battery box, where it could drain safely.  Then, after a short clean up of the puddles with gloves on, I wiped all surfaces down with a baking soda paste and rinsed thoroughly.  Battery acid will eat through just about anything metal, cloth, or wood.  I sure hope I neutralized the acid.  A quick note:  when cleaning the acid, it noticeably bubbles when the baking soda contacts it.  Wear long sleeves, eye protection, and rubber gloves.

Will never use a Marine battery for anything other than its intended purpose again.  I hope at least one builder has their skin, eyes, or boat saved by reading this posting.  I admit it was stupid and short sighted.

I will be putting a first aid kit on the wall in the garage, right next to the shelf for eye protection, hearing protectors, and gloves.

Hope to have this part done by Labor Day.  (putting a deadline on anything wont help. oops)

September 2, 2013
I finished putting in the batten today with the help of two volunteers!  Phil and Kenny came over to see what was transpiring and we got to work.  Phil mixed batches of epoxy and handed them to me in the boat while Kenny looked for gaps, drips, and spills.  It took about an hour to get the batten bedded down and held in place by the sheet rock screws (I used longer ones on purpose to ensure they are really in place.  Additionally, if they refuse to budge, I can heat up the end and it will melt the surrounding epoxy for extraction.  At least,  thats the theory.  It was nice to see the epoxy oozing out the sides and the batten was pressed into place.  Phil screwed the sheet rock screws in, while I stood on the batten to hold it flush with the bottom.  I hope to remember to pull the screws out tomorrow afternoon, as it gets more difficult as time goes on.

Kenny is thinking of building a CS 17, so he wanted to see the boat and plans close up.  I hope this was helpful.  At least we got another hand involved,  will reimburse with beer when the time comes.

No updates for a couple of weeks as spare time is limited, but it will involve putting in the stern bulkhead, and deck framing structures.  Seats and centerboard case to come as well.

September 3, 2013
Was able to successfully extract all the sheet rock screws.  going with the longer screw worked better as the helix is not a tightly wound on the make I used.  I did discover that I over filled the area that the centerboard trunk will abut and will need to chip out some epoxy from the batten with the multi-tool.

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Mast Tubes and mast steps

1-9-15  Mast Tubes
While waiting for the actual shipment of the aluminum tubes for the masts, I got antsy and went ahead and purchased a 3 chunk of 2.5 OD Aluminum of the 6061 variety used for the actual masts.  This will serve as the mandril to form the mast tube(s) for the mast support(s).  The plans call for one tube about 22" long in the bow for the main mast, however I am building tubes for the mizzen at the normal location, and a short tube to be put in the step to the seat deck level at the alternate mast step location.

Step one - place 1" vertical strips of 6mil plastic along the mandril.  These will serve to help release the actual tube from the mandril.

Step two - place 4 layers of 6 mil plastic around the mandril to provide some clearance for the actual mast.  Not too tight, not too loose a fit.

Step three - wind 2X4 of 10 oz fiberglass around the tube while wetting it out with epoxy.  It took me an hour to wet the glass out.

The music stands worked pretty good as work supports.  I rotated the mandril a little at a time while wetting out about 2" of fiberglass.  

Clean up took a while, but was glad I put plastic tarps around everything.  

Step 4 - 6 hours later, I removed one of the 1" strips from the tube and the whole thing started spinning freely.  So, I slid the assembly off the mandril and twisted the plastic sheeting out of the tube.  Then trimmed the loose stuff off with  razor blade.  So far, this was one of the easier aspects of building this boat!  Will make two others for the other mast and alternate position.  

completed mast tube.

The center thwart had one screw in the way of the mast hole!  Fortunately, it came right out with the frearson head screw bit #2.  

The tubes measure an OD of 2.803.  That is more than 2 3/4" but less than 3".  No one has a 2 7/8" hole saw, so had to order one.  Yes, I could have used the saber saw, but the hole saw will be much neater.  

1-15-15

Turned out that finding a 2 7/8 hole saw was harder than I thought, but my local Woodcraft store had a 2 7/8 Forstner bit in stock.  Took it home and realized it would not fit into the chuck of my handymans drill.  Therefore, borrowed a friends 1/2" Heavy duty drill to do the honors.  The first step is to make a guide from spare stock which will help keep the bit on track as it initially grabs the wood.  

2 7/8" hole drilled into a spare piece of 3/8" stock.  small sliver of trimmed mast ring is sitting in the hole to check for proper size.  Looks good.  

So far, so good.  will drill the bow and thwart holes in the morning.  

I will not be putting the alternate mast step in as I really dont want holes up in the cockpit.  With two reefs in the main and mizzen, it should be fine.  

1-16-15

Mast holes located and drilled.  

1.  Mark location with a punch and set drill and 1/4" template in place.  

2.  Drill out! 

3.  Use a curved rasp and drum sander to finish mizzen hole.  The 1 1/2" centerboard frame needs to be cut and the Forstner bit will not cut it properly.  (note:  I could have attached a small board under the thwart to help steer the bit, but thought of that too late in the process.  No harm done.)  I will be purchasing a set of microplanes for this kind of thing in the future.  

Voila! 

The bubble level shows that I have it set vertically at the moment.  Needs a 3 degree tilt. 

Mizzen step.  Test for fit.  Drain hole needs to be drilled for the step.  

There is plenty of play to adjust the angles, fore and aft, port to starboard.  A 2.5" mailing tube fits perfectly!

A little router work and the deck is cut away for the tube.  Deck wont be fastened until hatch and tubes are glued in place, plus combing needs to be cut to fit as well.  Poco a poco. 

March 1, 2015

Finally gave up waiting for the winter from hell to end.  For those reading this from afar, we have had over 100" of snow in 30 days, and we have had one day where the thermometer made it above freezing.  Just horrid boatbuilding weather.

Today, I took stock of the mast tubes from B+B and looked at the track and sails I ordered as well.  this inspired me to go out and set the boat level and get the mizzen step aligned.  It did take well over 2 hours to get the boat level with the bow 10" higher than the stern, but I believe it is good.  Will take a good look at all prior to screwing the mizzen step down to the keel batten.  Also took time to make the seat/floorboard supports look good.

This weather is going to break soon, and then the project will pick up speed.  Right now, just moving in the cold is the project.

mizzen step is marked, not glued

Major delays due to this stuff!  WAAYY too much snow this month, and COOOLLLLDDDD. 

Forward hatch frame being fitted.  no glue yet. 

3-12-15

the mizzen step has been glued and screwed in.  Sorry no photos as I needed to move FAST due to the amount of work to get done on the only warm day since October.  

At the top of the step, you can see the drain hole. 

Forstner bit was used to drill the thwart.  This was not easy as the CB trunk is in the way of the cut. 

March 27, 2015 

Finally got sick of the longest, coldest, snowiest winter on record for the Northeast US, and turned the heat lamps on in the boat and epoxied up the first layer of support for the mast tubes.  This locks the tubes in place permanently.  I angled them with a 20" level and a 1" block of wood attached with tape to the level.  Seems pretty straight.  Now the boat which had been leveled can be moved around again and I can get at some other stuff in the garage.  Hope to get it out in the daylight for cleaning next week.  It cant be winter forever.  

March 28th - Heaters on, and mast tubes glues in place. 

I ran out of patience waiting for it to warm up outside, so went and placed heat lamps in the boat to warm the areas getting epoxied and keep warm while it sets.  The lower sections of the masts were inserted into the tubes, and then the level placed on the forward side to measure a 1:20" angle by placing a 1" block 20" up on the level.  The sides were set plumb, then a visual by checking that the main mast and mizzen were on plane for and aft.  Unfortunately, I cannot do a side visual within the garage.  Photos below. 

The whole assembly can now be moved around without fear of knocking things out of alignment.  I will add Fiberglass tape to the areas tomorrow to create a beefy, permanent, attachment to the hull.  

March 29, 2015

Glassed the base and below deck portions of the mast tubes and made the holes for the alternate position for the mizzen.  Thinking that the rowing position is better with the mast temporarily moved up, and that I have have a better area for camping in the long run.  

alternate mizzen step.  Pretty easy to do after you have done the mizzen and main tubes.  No tube needed as the deck and seating area will hold the mizzen in place firmly.  I will use a slice of extra mast tube to serve as a bushing at the deck level.  

mizzen step.  Will trim flush once the epoxy sets up. 

Main mast glassed in place and filleted with high strength filler. Drain tube needs to be added next.  

Better view of the mizzen step glassed in place.  Heat lamps are helping to kick off the glue.

Some more photos.

Alternate mizzen position.  Not much bother to put in. 

Cleaned boat ready to move on to some finish and trim work prior to putting the decks on permanently.

Center thwart with mizzen tube.  Some fairing and sanding is needed on the bottom step.

April 12, 2015

Mast tubes are all glued in place and the drainage tube installed from the bottom to the starboard forward quarter.  I used 1/4" drip irrigation tubing covered in cork grease for the mold and ran it through a 1/2" hold on the starboard quarter.  The thinking is that the plywood will be sealed by the epoxy filler.  Good in theory, but epoxy did not get into the bottom 1/2 of the exterior hole so will need to fill it from the outside.  The main tube could use a little more reinforcement, so will add a little more glass to the step prior to putting the deck on.  

this runs right from the bottom of the tube to a little below the mast step.  

A little sanding and painting and I am done with the mast tube drain.  Boat needs sanding anyways!

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mast step

on to some other elements of this boat.  The mast step looked to be a bit of a challenge.  Step one was to get the waterline level.

The designer stipulates that to set the craft level, put the bow 10" higher than the transom.  Easier said than done.  As soon as i lifted the boat up in the stern to form the correct distance, the port corner of the transom was 1" lower than the starboard.  Therefore, i used the line dead center between these two points on the transom.

After this was set, I cut a piece of plywood to be the triangular top per the plans.  9 1/8 X 8 xxx.  Low and behold this created a distance of over 24" between the deck level and the mast step.  This would make the mast tube a little short for trimming correctly, and put the rig 3" lower.  Not tolerable.  Additionally, there is to be a 3 degree tilt to the step to get the mast angle correct.  I spent hours working on this problem.  My daughter is a math wizard and confirmed that this equates to a little less than 1" in 20".

I then cut a larger triangle that would sit so the mast tube would be about 21" from the deck. Putting the rig up higher, and providing enough tube to work with.  Then, a trip to the hardware store to get things plumb and angled correctly.  I purchased a cheap bubble level, and a dial protractor.

It took 5 minutes to get the step marked for installation.  total cost $11.  Highly recommended.  

Then, I discovered I had an app on my phone that would do it as well!  Doh!

Will build the support structure for under the step this weekend.  

Due to the high degree of variability with the forward section of each hull during the butterfly, stitch and glue process, I think that each mast step needs to be individually scribed and installed.  

Will double check the deck to step dimensions again tomorrow.  Looks like a finished tube will be 24".  I would like to leave it about an inch or two proud of the deck, then cut the aft half off to provide a little purchase for stepping the mast.  (although, a nice little mahogany box would do the same to receive the base of the mast.  would look cool, and could be trimmed with stainless!  Now were cookin

Hope to flip it this weekend and shape and tape the seams prior to finishing the interior.  

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